About
a week ago me and the chaps received a telegram from The Adventurists
Department of Passing on Unusual Government Complications.
They
had the pleasure of informing us of a small bureaucratic mishap. You
see, originally we had decided to go from Azerbaijan, across the
Caspian sea and then through Turkmenistan. Despite knowing that Turkmenistan is one of least friendly destinations in all of central
Asia, a region noted in many a travelogue as an ideal holiday
destination.
We
were aware of this, but after procuring our trusted HMS Dreadnought
and stacking up on pith helmets, it was decided that no obstacle was
too large. That was of course before we were introduced to Azerbaijani–Turkmenistan border relations. To diagnose them as chilly is about the same as referring to the cold war as a bit
of ruckus. To put it in other terms, they don’t appear to be on
speaking terms. This it seems, also extends to their rules and
regulations for crossing their respective borders.
Originally, we were told that the best we could get was a welcome, now please
get the f!%#-out visa, otherwise known as a 5-day transit pass
to lay people. This was to be given at the border, when we entered
Turkmenbashi (yes, the previous president named one of the largest
towns in Turkmenistan after himself — it’s that kind of country).
Now, however, we have been informed by our good chums over at the
Department of Passing on Unusual Government Complications, that
Azerbaijan have changed their immigration laws. You now need a valid
visa before you are allowed to get on the ferry to Turkmenbashi. Well, thank you very much. But as Churchill was so fond of saying, KBO.
Unfazed by this minor setback, we have been informed of a number of
possible solutions, one of them involves driving through Iran. (So for the first time in a few decades Iran might be part of a solution,
who would have thought …) Another possible solution is the
Turkmenistan embassy in Baku, noted for their service mindedness and
for being open on Mondays and Fridays only. This is going to be
great!
This
sort of problem is exactly the reason why we decided on the Mongol
Rally and if you are too worried about getting stuck for days on end
in no-mans land or some random prison in Central Asia, don’t come,
this is not the race for you, maybe you should consider a beach
holiday in Spain?
Ahh, the joys of Central Asia. :)
Ahh, the joys of Central Asia. :)
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